Italy Travel Notes

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by Brandon L. Wilson

Reportedly, there were three roads to Paradise in early Christendom: the Camino de Santiago across northern Spain, the route from Rome to Jerusalem and the Via Francigena (Frankish Route). Originally the Via Francigena (VF) stretched as a series of trails from Canterbury, England to Rome. Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, who returned via the route in 990 AD, first documented it in a diary. However, some say it existed long before as a major cross-continent trail for kings, traders, artists and invading armies. Today, after centuries of neglect, this historic path has re-emerged from the ashes of historic obscurity.

As the first American to complete the 1155-mile backpacking journey from Val d’Aosta, Italy, just south of the Swiss border, to Rome in 2000, and in 2002 from Switzerland to Canterbury, believe me when I say that this is one journey you’ll carry with you for a lifetime. If you’re in fairly good physical condition, with perseverance and a relatively easy pace, you should be able to trek the entire route in 65-80 days. But then again, who’s worried about speed?

Unlike the frantic itinerary typical of other modern types of travel, this is not a race. It’s a one-step-at-a-time pathway to slow down your mind and open your heart.

Everyone walks at his own pace, either alone or in a group. Following infrequent signposts and an up-to-date guidebook from the Association VF, you can walk 12-20 miles a day. It all depends on the weather, your physical condition and attitude. Equally important is the location of villages and whether they have accommodations or pellegrino or pilgrim-friendly parishes.

When I walked it, for some locals, the pellegrino concept was more foreign than the Euro. I received more than a few strange looks, as this weary, weathered backpacker shuffled into town. On one occasion, a lady nervously clutched her brooch as my friend and I passed her on the sidewalk. Another day, in pounding rain, we were forced to present our credenzialis (with a flourish) to startled polizia officers.

Before leaving, be sure to contact the helpful Association Via Francigena in Rome to request the passport-like credenziali del pellegrino Romeo. Arriving in each village at night, take your credenziali to the church, cathedral or duomo and have it stamped by the priest or even an unassuming archbishop, such as the one who stamped mine in Viterbo, Italy.

En route, this passport has more practical purposes. It’s a great conversation starter, a source of local amazement, and may even open the door for you to sleep for minimal cost in the local parish, monastery or convent. This is an experience not to be missed. Sure, you could sleep in some of the region’s finest hotels, bed and breakfasts or spa resorts. But for me, it was important to stay true to the concept and more memorable to collapse in these historic hostels. The chance to “break bread” and share Chianti with Franciscan, Augustine, or Capuchin monks was preferable to any homogenous, non-descript hotel. (Besides, travelling light with only a small backpack, cruising the local discos was never an option for me. I had nothing to wear.)

Carrying your own pack, you quickly realize what is most important on the trail, and perhaps in your life. Extra weight is equated with more aching muscles and bigger blisters. So, what you don’t need–definitely leave at home. Pack as if you’re going for a weekend hike in the mountains. A stove and tent are unnecessary. Food supplies are plentiful–and exceptional. Take a lightweight sleeping bag, since many villages still do not have extra beds, let alone bedding. Here, again, is where the Association Via Francigena guides shine, especially with their accommodation suggestions.

The best time to go is May-September, but come prepared for hot weather, rain or even snow atop Pass Gran St. Bernard as you enter Italy. If you only have time to walk part of the VF, Geneva is very accessible to Lausanne, about midway on the trail, or Milan for points further south.

As you might imagine, anyone following this trail today is a “pioneer.” Although village priests are generally curious and supportive, many are still unequipped to deal with overnight guests. Sometimes the most opulent cathedrals and richest parishes are less welcoming than the tiniest of crumbling village churches.

There’s nothing more disheartening on the trail than, after walking in the often brutal heat for eight hours, to arrive at an imposing church, present your credenziali to a smiling priest for its stamp, then be told “there’s no room at the inn.” It happens. Don’t be surprised when you’re told “so-and-so” town is just ten-kilometers away. Little do they realize that that means several more hours of trekking in near darkness. But this is the exception.

My fondest memories of the journey were nights spent practicing mangled Italian and awkward hand gestures with curious villagers. There was universal astonishment that someone would walk to Rome, a wide-eyed fascination, and genuine warmth you don’t find among jaded locals in major tourist destinations.

From the simple fruit peddler who wouldn’t accept payment for his apple, to the caf? owner who treated me to a steamy morning espresso, to the small town priest, his housekeeper and mother who treated my friend and I like royalty and wept when we left, to the local mayor who let me use the village’s sole Internet connection to check my e-mail, to the Sisters of San Guistiniana who took me in for the night and fed me when I could walk no farther, to the amiable WW II paratrooper who’d served with the American Allies who bought me a glass of vino to toast his comrades, these folks were a few of the unexpected treasures along the VF.

So who walks the Via Francigena today? Over four weeks on the trail, I met a total of six others: a Frenchman bicycling to Jerusalem and five German cyclists enroute to Rome.

What is it that attracts today’s pellegrinos to the VF?

It’s still a great odyssey. It’s a chance to shut out the distractions of a busy world. Opportunities for such peaceful reflection should improve with time, as the trail moves away from often-dangerous roads. The Association is working on it. However, be forewarned. Italians push their Fiats to the limit. Some stretches of the path will test your bravery, devotion and sanity.

But the country roads in France and well-marked trails in Switzerland and Southeast England are a pure delight. This is the way to steep in local culture–and travel across time.

The Via Francigena presents many opportunities to discover precious art and architecture, such as Siena’s magnificent marbled Duomo, or its neighboring living museums in Lucca and San Gimignano. It’s a chance to stroll ancient Roman roads. Explore castles, elaborate fountains, frescoes, sculpture and holy relics sequestered in tiny chapels along the way. Experience local festivals, such as the Choucroute (Sauerkraut) Celebration and local harvest celebrations.

Explore traditional Italian delicacies, from Pontremoli’s specialty, the wonderful morsels of earthy fungo (mushrooms) to Rome’s melt-in-your-mouth buffalo mozzarella. All the delicacies from your favorite cooking show are right there: from savory chestnuts at your feet simply for the gathering to the tart Gorgonzola pizzas and gooey fondue of Italy’s alpine north.

Of course, no sojourn would be complete without sampling the most incredible variety of wines. Sip rare local champagnes direct from their caves, savor deliciously chilled vino bianco at corner cafes from Aosta to the Ligurian Sea. Then continue your gourmet quest south with hearty Tuscan rossos, Chianti and refreshing Brunello of Montalcino, as you wend your way toward serene Lake Bolseno.

In Rome, one interesting way to end your journey is to attend the Pope’s public audience held each week. Even for me, a non-Catholic, it was an emotional avalanche. It’s an amazing contrast to walk alone past shepherds and their flocks one minute and emerge in St. Peter’s Square within the hour. Folks had come from around the world, but maybe I was the only pellegrino who’d walked there.

While facing St. Peter’s Basilica, visit the Association Via Francigena’s representative in the Vatican Post Office. There, you’ll receive a hearty welcome and Vatican postcard stamped with your day of arrival. Later, you might be eligible to receive a certificate in recognition of your journey.

Finally, leave yourself open to the “magic” of the experience, the inspiration, your silent companion along the way. Besides relics, relaxation, food and fresh air, you’ll return to your everyday life with an even more precious memento. You’ll change. Life will never be the same. And perhaps you will have found the answers you truly seek.

Buono viaggio! As the Italians say, “Sempre diretto!”

Brandon Wilson is an expert light trekker and member of the prestigious Explorers Club. He makes it a point to travel lighter each year on the trail and in life. He has walked the Camino de Santiago twice, the St. Olav’s Way across Norway, and was the first American to trek the Via Francigena from Canterbury, England to Rome. He and his wife were the first Western couple to hike a 1000 km. pilgrim’s route across Tibet, as told in Yak Butter Blues: A Tibetan Trek of Faith.

In 2006, he trekked 2700 miles for peace from France to Israel. His book about this incredible adventure will be published in 2007.

Wilson is the award-winning author and photographer of Yak Butter Blues: A Tibetan Trek of Faith and Dead Men Don’t Leave Tips: Adventures X Africa (both available at Amazon.com, BN.com or at your favorite bookseller). For an intimate look at these and other journeys, please visit http://www.PilgrimsTales.com.

Article source: Expert Articles

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