Everything you need to know to enjoy Bologna at its best- part 1
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by Giuseppe Zappalà
While on a visit to Bologna a friend of mine from abroad was really struck by the distinctiveness of the city, wondering why it was not a more popular destination for foreign tourists.
He believes Bologna merits more than a fleeting weekend. It definitely is worth it!
To tell the truth, Bologna enjoys much bigger fame around the world than it is believed. Its name is synonymous with gastronomy even if it is being associated with a specialty whose origins can hardly be traced back to Bologna: the (unfortunately) famous Spaghetti Bolognese. And they have nothing of the “Bolognese” in them.
It is the mortadella, lasagna and tortellini (whose origins are being disputed by a number of other localities in Emilia-Romagna) that actually originate from Bologna.
Bologna is undoubtedly known for its University, the oldest on the continent. It was founded in 1088 and is an institution of great importance for the city, which takes up different premises in the centre but also on the city’s outskirts.
But let us get back to the start, to the point where the visitor nearing the city spots from afar the outlines of an imposing construction, sited atop a hill, to the city’s south. This is the Basilica of San Luca, a sort of beacon for travellers, which signals from a distance that they are about to enter the city of Bologna (whose ancient Etruscan name was Felsina).
The Basilica is the sanctuary of the image of the Madonna col Bambino (The Virgin with the Baby). The legend tells that in the 15th C the heavy never-ending rains threatened to spoil the harvest and fears were mounting of a famine. In an attempt to exorcize this danger, the image of the Madonna was brought down to the city in a solemn procession and the sun miraculously appeared in the sky. From then onwards once a year, before Ascension Day, a procession is organized and the image of the Madonna is brought down from the San Pietro Cathedral, along the several-hundred-metre-long arcade which slowly ascends towards Mount Guardia. And every year (or almost every year) it rains!
If one is to choose something that could define the city’s outlook, it can without a shade of a doubt be the typical porticos (or arcades) of Emilia-Romagna that protect the citizens from any spells of bad weather and allow them to stop and chatter, look at shop windows and calmly wait for the bus to come. And there are kilometres and kilometres of arcades throughout the city.
The capital city of the region of Emilia-Romagna presents the visitor with an architecture that combines the Medieval and Liberty-style buildings.
The main arteries of downtown Bologna branch out from the Two Towers, the most classical local landmark. The towers carry the names of two powerful families who had the towers constructed in the Middle Ages: Asinelli is the taller one, Garisenda – the lower one. The towers used to serve as refuges during the fights between the local powers and as a shelter for hoarding their possessions (mainly food). Bologna boasted an impressive number of towers in the Middle Ages.
Now a few words about the main streets in the city centre. Bologna’s Via Rizzoli starts from the Two Towers leading shortly out onto Piazza Nettuno which features a statute of the God of Sea, sculptured by a Flemish sculptor called Jean de Bologne or Gianbologna. From the square one can get to the spectacular Piazza Maggiore, overlooked by buildings such as the imposing Basilica San Petronio (Patron Saint of the city) – whose construction started in 1390, only to be completed in 1663. It was likely to become the biggest place of cult for the Catholic Church, but then Pope Pius IV opposed the idea (at the time Bologna was part of the Papal States). Another landmark building is Palazzo d’Accursio, whose original edifices date back to 13th – 14th C and is today the city’s Town Hall. It also houses the Museum named after Bologna’s famous 20th C painter Giorgio Morandi. Palazzo Re Enzo, Palazzo dei Notai and Palazzo dei Banchi complete the suggestive scenario, evoked by a very rich Medieval history.
end of part 1
The Bologna photos has been provided by Nicolas Lévy and Giuseppe Zappalà.
More about the region of Emilia Romagna:
Discover even more about what the region of Emilia Romanga, where Bologna is located, has to offer and find out what your fellow travelers recommend to see and visit at http://www.italytravelnotes.com/category/emilia-romagna/
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I also believe that Bologna is a quintessential Italian city. I love the Leaning towers. They are reminders of the fights that once opposed enemy families. The tallest one, the Asinelli tower, dates back to 1109 and its 486 steps lead you to a great view of the city. I climb there whenever my tours allow.